Carpet Removal

This should have been titled how NOT to remove carpet. This video is great because it demonstrates the two key points of carpet removal one cut the carpet into a size you can manage without cutting the sub-floor, and two it is dirty work!
To keep the dust down vacuum the carpet before you start. wear a good dusk mask with a valve. buy the large pack of utility blades and change the blades often. first cut the carpet around the perimeter of the room 6 inches or less from the wall. Keep the strip narrow because pulling the carpet off the tack-strip shakes the dirt out of the carpet and into the air. Go slow here. Pliers ViceGrips or a tear-out tool help you get a better grip on the carpet. Cut the carpet into strips turn them over and roll them up. the finest dirt filters down into the carpet, the top of the carpet is the cleaner side so trap the dirt into the roll. Take the carpet outside, sweep up, and ahhhhh your breathing easier already.

Floor Preparation

Scrape up any lose paint or compound that may leave a hump in your finished floor. Vacuum up any lose scraps. Removing any doors in your room is recommended.

Installing the Tack Strip

Install tack strip around the entire perimeter of the room, making sure to maintain a 3/8″ gulley between the tack strip and the baseboard. A good way to determine that is to place your fingers between the wall and the piece of tack strip. Align the tack strip with the printed arrows pointing toward the wall. When purchasing tack strips, the wider the better. Tack strips are strips of wood that have small teeth facing up to bite into the bottom of your carpet and hold it from shifting. The strips will have pre-set nails sticking out of the face. Position your strips a half inch away from the wall and drive the nails in.

Carpet Seam Placement

Where your carpet seams should go in your room. The placement of the carpet seam will depend on where the traffic flow is coming from and the lighting. Avoid placing seams in high traffic areas when possible. The carpet direction (grain) should always be in the same direction, otherwise the carpet will appear to be two different colors.

Choosing The Right Carpet Cushion

Installing the New Carpet

Install your carpet underlay in strips and staple it in place. Butt the edges of the underlay together (don’t overlap them). Trim away the excess underpad along the inside edge of the tackless strips, ensuring the tacks are exposed. Measure your room at its longest point and add at least 4 inches to that measurement. Layout your carpet (outside or on a garage floor) where you have room to work, and mark the back of the carpet on both edges with your room measurement. Use a chalk line to join the two marks and then with a utility or carpet knife cut the carpet to length (cut from the backside).
If your room is wide enough to need another piece of carpet, follow the same process, measure, layout, mark and trim, then bring the carpet into the room and place so it overlaps the existing piece by about 2 inches. Be sure the grain of the carpet is running the same way.
Attach the carpet to the tackles strips by placing the knee kicker about 3 inches from the wall and driving your knee forcefully into the padded end. This will stretch the carpet over the tackless strip that will grab and hold it in place. Trim along the wall with an edge trimmer (cuts through the carpet right at the wall). Attach the carpet on the opposite side of the room using the power stretcher to fasten it to the tackless strips. Trim away any excess; then, using the stair tool tuck the carpet under the exposed baseboard. Trim the carpet at the doorway, install a door edge, cut vent openings and install the shoe molding on the baseboard.

Kicking a Small Room

Power Stretching a Large Room

How to use the power stretcher to stretch the carpet in a large bedroom.

Install A Vinyl Floor

Carpet Seaming How To Video

Overlap the two pieces at the seam by two or three inches.
Note: Make sure the nap of the carpet runs in the same direction on both pieces being seamed together.
Use a white chalk line to make a line on the back of the top piece, approximately 1/2 the width of the overlap or about 1 1/2 inches from the edge.
With a straightedge, make a cut along the chalked line.
Note: This cut will give you a straight edge on the top piece.

To cut the bottom piece of carpet use the top cut piece as a guide, pressing it firmly against the bottom piece as you cut. Make a series of 2-inch cuts every two to three feet, through the bottom piece.
Note: Use scissors to cut from the edge of the carpet to the center of each 2-inch cut. This will help you find the 2-inch cuts when ready to trim.

With the straightedge and a sharp utility knife, make the cut using the 2-inch cuts as guides.

Fold back one piece of the carpet at the seam and put double-faced tape on the floor along the edge of the remaining piece.
Note: Don’t pull off the protective paper from the tape yet.

Pull back the other piece of carpet, and put another strip of tape along the seam edge.

Remove the protective paper from both pieces of tape, lay one piece of carpet back down on the floor, and position the full piece.

Apply a thin bead of seam adhesive along the side of the cushion of the carpet that is already taped to the floor.

While the adhesive is still wet, butt the two edges of the carpet pieces together.
Note: Take care to keep the carpet nap out of the seam.

The two edges may form a slight buckle. If so, press down until it becomes nearly invisible.

Clean any adhesive off of the carpet immediately.

Carpet Seam Strength Demostration

installing carpet on stairs

This is a DIY guide to installing carpet on bull-nose stair treads, and using trim to cover the risers of the stairs. It’s a classier look than full carpet, and safer than hardwood stairs.

Stairs

1. Cut pieces of tackless strip (usually available at Home Depot or Lowe’s; comes in 4′ lengths) about 1 1/2″ narrower than the width of the runner. You need one piece at the back of each tread and one piece at the bottom of each riser. Mark the center of the pieces of tackless, and mark the center of the treads where the treads and risers meet at the back of the treads.

2. Attach one tackless strip at the back of the first tread. The tackless should be about 1″ out from the corner formed by the back of the tread and the bottom of the riser for thinner rugs, and as much as 2″ out from the corner for very thick runners. Adjust as necessary. The strip should be centered on the mark you made in Step 1. The tacks in the strip should face back toward the riser.

3. Attach one tackless strip at the bottom of the first riser. The tackless should be about 1″ up from the corner formed by the back of the tread and the bottom of the riser for thinner rugs, and as much as 2″ up from the corner for very thick runners. Adjust as necessary. The strip should be centered on the mark you made in Step 1. The tacks in the strip should face down toward the tread. Repeat Steps 2 and 3 for all the treads and risers to be covered by the runner.

4. Cut a piece of carpet pad for each tread. The pieces of pad should be the same width as the tackless strip, and deep enough to butt against the tackless strip at the back of the tread and wrap down over the edge or “nose” of the tread. The pad should end short of the tackless on riser below the tread.

5. Attach a piece of carpet pad to each tread. Center the pad and butt it against the tackless at the back of the tread. Fasten with a staple at the back corners and every 6″ paralleling the tackless. Wrap the pad down over the nose of the tread and staple the corners and every 6″ to the riser. Repeat for all the treads.

6. Rub the pile of your runner with the palm of your hand. Notice that the pile lays smoothly in one direction. Face the rug with the pile laying toward you. You will install the runner with the far end at the top of the stairs. By doing this, you arrange for the pile to face down on the risers. The pile catches less dirt this way, and the runner will last longer and look better.

7. Start the rug at the top of the stairs. If beginning under the nose of the upper landing, fold the fringe to the back of the rug, center the rug at the top of the riser, snug the end up tight under the nose, and fasten the top edge to the riser with a carpet tack at each corner and every 4″ across the end. If starting the rug on the upper landing, cut a piece of carpet pad long enough to sit under the rug and extend down over the nose of the landing onto the riser below. Staple the pad in place on the landing and on the riser. Fasten the rug over the pad with a carpet tack at each corner and a tack every 4″ across the end and down the edges on the landing. The attachment of the end of the runner on the landing must be good and secure to be safe.

8. Smooth the rug down to the bottom of the riser and push it back tight into riser-tread corner so it is gripped by the tackless strips in the corner. The runner should flow smoothly to the bottom of the riser. Do not tuck it back under the nose of the tread and tight to the riser. Be sure the runner is straight on the stairs. Wrap the runner out and over the next tread and check that length used to cover the riser and tread combination is what you expected. If the rug is running “long”, you can take up a bit of extra length by re-setting the rug in the tackless corner so it is a little looser (but not much!) on the riser. If the rug is running “short”, you can pull it more tightly down the riser, or push it not-quite-so-far into the tackless corner. When happy with the arrangement, pound the runner into the corner with the blunt chisel (you can also use the edge of a narrow piece of plywood, or any other tool you have that will let you tamp the rug into the tackless corner without cutting or piercing the face of the rug). The runner should be solid in the corner, with the tacks of the tackless strips gripping it across its full width.

9. Continue down the stairs, doing each riser-tread combination in turn.

10. Finish the installation at the bottom. If the rug finishes on the bottom tread with the fringe hanging down over the riser, shorten the last carpet pad so it doesn’t show on the riser. Secure the end of the runner with carpet tacks as you did the top. If the runner finishes at the bottom of the bottom riser, tuck the fringe behind and secure with a row of tacks across the end of the rug at the bottom of the riser. If the runner ran longer than you thought, you can even fold a few inches of pile to the back and secure the rug at the bottom of the riser with 1 1/2″ or 2″ finishing nails. If the runner is to run out a bit onto the floor at the foot of the stairs, put a piece of carpet pad under it, and secure the end and edges of the rug with a few carpet tacks.

Install Stairway Carpet Runner

Here’s how to dress up stairs and make them safer with a carpet runner. This video is part of Don’t Sweat It show hosted by Steve Watson . SHOW DESCRIPTION :In Don’t Sweat It, Steve Watson has a knack for helping homeowners take on those improvements they never had time for. Our high-octane host rumbles into town and shows guests how to finish projects they’ve been putting off. Indoor, outdoor, all around the house – it’s a dream come true: Someone with a full-tilt energy rush bent on getting that thing you want done finally done!

Carpet Repair

“I made this video to intentionally show you that the difference in color does make a difference in the quality of the carpet patch. If the carpet to be patched is old, worn, faded or discolored for any reason, then the patch will be visible. In this case, the customer was aware of the fact that the carpet patches would be visible. The content demonstrates a few basics on how to use a Patch Master and a Cookie Cutter to patch a carpet. ”
the small tool is an inexpensive carpet repair tools for removing stains in carpeting. It has and blade and a pivot pin that cuts a 3″ diameter hole. Made of durable plastic with instruction in the lid. Great for the home owner for repairing a few spots in your carpet. Made by Crain Tools

CARPET TOOLS

Knee Kicker

Knee kickers are the carpet tools that are designed to lay carpets in the smaller areas of the house, especially the corners. With the help of this equipment, you can attach the rug to both tacked and tackless strips.

Carpet Stretcher

This is a tool that is used to make the carpet flat and taut over the floor. If there are any wrinkles on the carpet, you can stretch it with the help of this tool.

Carpet Seaming Iron

Plug in your seaming iron and check to see if the cord reaches your carpet seam. Attach an extension cord if necessary. Preheat your seaming iron to the correct temperature as indicated on the seaming tape. Check the temperature of your iron before using on the seaming tape. Place the seaming iron directly on the seaming tape for 30 seconds or in accordance with manufactures’ suggestions. Slide the seaming iron along the tape, pressing the new carpet seam into the activated seaming glue.

Seam Tool

Carpet seam equipment generally comprises of a small handle with a comfort grip and a spiked metal head that moves with the help of a pivot axle. With the help of this tool you can make the seam less visible and push the rug seams into the adhesive for a more firm hold.

Stair Tool

The flat, round base of the handle is where you have to strike with a hammer or mallet. In areas like the corners of stairs, this tool is useful to drive the rug into the space around the staircase, tackless strip, and the wall, giving the carpets a tighter fit.

Roberts Carpet Tools Safe Tuk Carpet Tucker

Nylon tucking tool will not mark or damage walls. Use it around toilets and ceramic tile without risk of breakage. Designed for convenience, the square edge works well for tucking carpet into corners, the curved edge is great for stairs.
Price: $ 7.92

Wall Trimer

Use a trimmer to trim the carpet against the baseboard, and tuck down into the gulley. The trimmer can be rented or purchased for approximately $35 to $40. Work in 3′ to 4′ sections at a time.

Cushion Back Carpet Cutter

A cushion back carpet cutter is a special tool used to create seams between two pieces of carpet. It is used on carpeting that has a cushion or rubber backing on it and cuts through both layers to make a straight line. The cutter has a special metal guide on the bottom that is called the plow. The plow guides the cutter’s blade along the length of the carpet, which results in an almost effortless straight cut.
Go to the end of the carpet where you need to seam it together with another piece of carpet. Make sure the blade of the cushion back carpet cutter is retracted, and place the bottom metal edge 1 to 2 inches away from the edge of the carpet. Move the cutter along the length of the carpet in a back-and-forth motion to separate the carpet piles. You are not cutting the carpet yet, but you will see a visible line where carpet piles separate. Return to the starting position and slide the side bar on the cutter downward to push the sharp blade out of the bottom. Place the cushion back cutter into the grooved line that you created previously. Push down on the top of the cutter with firm pressure and push it along the length of the grooved line. Continue cutting until you reach the other end of the carpet. Grasp the short edge of the carpet that you cut off and gently pull it away.

Seaming Tractor

Made with spike wheels which flatten seams, reduce seam-peaking, and mix fibers for less visble seams.

Undercut saw

It is equipment with a short handle and metal jagged head. It is easy to slip this equipment under the door frames. With the help of this tool, you can fit the carpet better under a jam.

Carpet Knife

The Stanley Carpet Knife is a good choice $12.99/each
Retractable double-edge blade for controlling depth of cutting. Angular design handle for easy access to hard to reach places. Includes three No. 11-525 double-edge carpet blades. 6-1/2 length.

Knee Pads

For us old guys

Do you have a cold or the flu? Although both are caused by a virus, it can be important to identify if you are sick with a simple cold or the flu, since there are treatments for the flu.

This is a video about air duct cleaning produced by NADCA, A.K.A. National Air Duct Cleaners Association. This video features one of our truck mounted power vac units. It is the red Duct Cleaning Truck. Mite-E-Ducts air duct cleaning is a Residential and Commercial air duct cleaning company located in Zionsville, Indiana. We serve a statewide customer base including customers in Brownsburg, Carmel, Fishers, Greenwood, Noblesville, Zionsville, Broadripple, Fortville, Shelbyville, Franklin, Mooresville, Martinsville, Plainfield, the greater Indianapolis area, and many other locations. We also provide dryer vent cleaning, insulation removal, fire restoration, deodorizing, sanitizing, & much more. Mite-E-Ducts has been Locally & Independently Owned and Operated since 1995. For seven years we have received Angie’s List Super Service Award! Our goal is to provide our customers with the best service possible, we designed this web site to provide you with information about the different services we provide. If you have any questions feel free to email or call us at 317-733-1012, or Toll Free at 1-877-8-NO-DIRT. Mite-E-Ducts Profile Mite-E-Ducts specializes in air duct cleaning. It is NOT a sideline business for us. Our technicians are Air Duct Cleaners only! They do not perform HVAC service or installation, Carpet Cleaning, Chimney Cleaning, etc. Mite-E-Ducts uses the best equipment around. Our truck mounted “Power Vac” units have the capability of producing between 12,500 and 16,000 CFM (Cubic Feet per Minute) of vacuum. Unlike others who use portable units which are only capable of producing between 400 and 4,000 CFM of vacuum. Plus, everything that we remove from the ductwork is contained and filtered outside in our truck mounted “Power Vac” units. Rather than being filtered inside the home as a portable unit would do. Our process reduces chance of anything re-contaminating the ductwork! This is a video about air duct cleaning produced by NADCA, A.K.A. National Air Duct Cleaners Association. This video features one of our truck mounted power vac units. It is the red Duct Cleaning Truck. Mite-E-Ducts air duct cleaning is a Residential and Commercial air duct cleaning company located in Zionsville, Indiana. We serve a statewide customer base including customers in Brownsburg, Carmel, Fishers, Greenwood, Noblesville, Zionsville, Broadripple, Fortville, Shelbyville, Franklin, Mooresville, Martinsville, Plainfield, the greater Indianapolis area, and many other locations. We also provide dryer vent cleaning, insulation removal, fire restoration, deodorizing, sanitizing, & much more. Mite-E-Ducts has been Locally & Independently Owned and Operated since 1995. For seven years we have received Angie’s List Super Service Award! Our goal is to provide our customers with the best service possible, we designed this web site to provide you with information about the different services we

This is a video about air duct cleaning produced by NADCA, A.K.A. National Air Duct Cleaners Association. This video features one of our truck mounted power vac units. It is the red Duct Cleaning Truck. Mite-E-Ducts air duct cleaning is a Residential and Commercial air duct cleaning company located in Zionsville, Indiana. We serve a statewide customer base including customers in Brownsburg, Carmel, Fishers, Greenwood, Noblesville, Zionsville, Broadripple, Fortville, Shelbyville, Franklin, Mooresville, Martinsville, Plainfield, the greater Indianapolis area, and many other locations. We also provide dryer vent cleaning, insulation removal, fire restoration, deodorizing, sanitizing, & much more. Mite-E-Ducts has been Locally & Independently Owned and Operated since 1995. For seven years we have received Angie’s List Super Service Award! Our goal is to provide our customers with the best service possible, we designed this web site to provide you with information about the different services we provide. If you have any questions feel free to email or call us at 317-733-1012, or Toll Free at 1-877-8-NO-DIRT. Mite-E-Ducts Profile Mite-E-Ducts specializes in air duct cleaning. It is NOT a sideline business for us. Our technicians are Air Duct Cleaners only! They do not perform HVAC service or installation, Carpet Cleaning, Chimney Cleaning, etc. Mite-E-Ducts uses the best equipment around. Our truck mounted “Power Vac” units have the capability of producing between 12,500 and 16,000 CFM (Cubic Feet per Minute) of vacuum. Unlike others who use portable units which are only capable of producing between 400 and 4,000 CFM of vacuum. Plus, everything that we remove from the ductwork is contained and filtered outside in our truck mounted “Power Vac” units. Rather than being filtered inside the home as a portable unit would do. Our process reduces chance of anything re-contaminating the ductwork!

There’s a hidden danger spot in most homes today. Chances are you don’t look at it or even think about it. It’s the vent from your clothes dryer.

Over time, your Dryer Vents fill with lint that slips past your dryer’s filter. Overheating results as the lint builds up, and then you’re just a step away from a fire.

Sound unlikely? Here are some alarming facts from a May 2003 report from the Consumer Product Safety Commission:
Over 15,500 clothes dryer fires occur each year.
These dryer fires result in approximately:
20 deaths
370 injuries
Over $75,000,000 in property damage, Every Year!

After a significant build up of debris in the dryer vent hose, the dryer overheats and the lint catches fire. Combustibles in the immediate vicinity then help fuel the fire.

TEK Indoor Environmental provides residential and commercial air duct cleaning, dryer vent cleaning and furnace filter replacement services to Ketchikan and all of S.E. Alaska.

There is a Simple Solution
Unlike many health and safety issues we are faced with in the home, this safety problem has an easy and economical solution. The best way to prevent the possibility of a dryer fire harming your home and family is with a thorough dryer inspection by Tom and his team.

A key to effective dryer performance and safety is optimal airflow. A properly installed all-metal dryer vent will help ensure this airflow.

In addition, numerous financial benefits are derived from annual dryer vent cleaning. Removing the lint allows the dryer to operate more efficiently, reducing energy costs significantly. Drying times are decreased. And, your dryer can last much longer since it’s not operating at the higher temperatures that are caused by the lint buildup. The charge for this service is surprisingly reasonable, and it pays for itself in lower service and utility costs.
Call us today at 821-0078.

One of the most overlooked parts of the home is the heating and cooling ducting. Out of sight, but always working for you, the home ductwork usually contains as much space as an average size room. When was the last time this room was cleaned? Some health experts believe that approximately one in six people who suffer from allergies do so as a direct result of fungi and bacteria in the air duct system.Health considerations aside, there are other good reasons to have your air ducts cleaned. Dust and dirt in the heating/cooling system is a primary cause of system breakdown and unscheduled service calls. A clean system is also more efficient.So, as you can see, furnace and air duct cleaning makes the system last longer and conserve energy. Consider having your air ducts cleaned today. We recommend cleaning every 2-3 years, depending on your living circumstances or annually for homes with allergic patients.We use a very large vacuum system designed to put your air duct system under negative pressure. We close or seal each vent to maintain this pressure and prevent dust entry into the home. We then clean the interior of the ductwork with special tools that travel through the ductwork to dislodge the debris. Once airborne inside the ductwork, the debris is drawn into the vacuum system by the strong airflow created by the negative pressure. After cleaning the ductwork, we can sanitize or deodorize the system.

Give us a call today 907-821-0078 for the finest furnace/air duct cleaning available. You’ll be glad you did!

Exposure to mold can cause cold-like symptoms, respiratory problems, nasal and sinus congestion, watery eyes, sore throat, coughing and skin irritations, and can trigger asthma attacks. Because some mold spores are very small and can easily be breathed deeply into the lungs, it is not safe to live in houses with high mold levels. Exposure to high mold spore levels can cause development of an allergy to mold. People can react to mold whether it is living or dead.

Everyone should minimize their exposure to mold. Children, the elderly, pregnant women and people with existing respiratory sensitivities are at higher risk for adverse health effects from mold. Some people are affected when exposed to very little mold, while others may show no adverse health symptoms when exposed to mold.
If you can smell a musty odor or see mold, you have a mold problem. Reliable sampling for mold can be expensive since it requires special equipment and training. Testing is not generally recommended as a first step.

Where to Look for Mold
Mold grows on organic materials, such as paper, dirt, wood and soap scum. Mold grows on moist materials, so mold growth is likely in areas wet by water leaks, flooding, humidity levels above about 70 percent and condensation. Any flooded area that was not completely dried within about one day is likely to have mold growth. Walls need to be opened and rapidly dried to prevent mold growth. Any area that is stained from water should be examined for mold growth. Peeling paint may be an indication of wet walls. Moisture seeping through concrete walls and floors will cause moist conditions likely to cause mold growth on or in walls, carpeting and materials stored in the basement. Mold often grows under cabinets, behind base-boards, inside walls, in carpet padding and under vinyl wall coverings. An unvented clothes dryer creates a very humid, warm environment conducive to mold growth. Closets may have mold growth if clothing is damp or if there is a cool outside wall in the closet. Also, there is a chance mold might be growing behind furniture, particularly against an outside wall. Mold will not normally be found in furnace or air-conditioning ducts unless they were flooded because the heated or air-conditioned air is very dry. Moisture coming through a basement floor or wall may deposit a light-colored salt and other minerals that are sometimes thought to be mold. The deposits should quickly dissolve and disappear when wet with water if they are a salt.

Mold Removal
Since people react to mold whether it is living or dead, the mold must be removed. Take steps to protect your health during mold removal. Use a mask or respirator that will filter out mold spores. Usually it will be designated as an N95, 3M #1860 or TC-21C particulate respirator. Wear eye protection, rubber gloves and clothing that can be immediately laundered. Dampen moldy materials before removal to minimize the number of airborne mold spores.
Mold can be removed from hard surfaces such as hard plastic, glass, metal and counter tops by scrubbing with a non-ammonia soap or detergent. (Do not mix ammonia and bleach; the fumes are toxic.)
It is impossible to completely remove mold from porous surfaces such as paper, Sheetrock (drywall) and carpet padding, so these materials should be removed and discarded.

Scrubbing may not completely remove mold growth on structural wood, such as wall studs, so it may need to be removed by sanding. Wear personal protective gear and isolate the work area from the rest of the home.
After the mold is removed, disinfect the area using a bleach and water solution or another disinfectant. The amount of bleach recommended per gallon of water varies considerably. A clean surface requires less bleach than a dirty surface. A solution of ¼ cup bleach to 1 gallon of water should be adequate for clean surfaces. The surface must remain wet for about 15 minutes to allow the solution to disinfect. Concentrations as high as 1½ cups of bleach per gallon of water are recommended for surfaces that could not be thoroughly cleaned. Provide adequate ventilation during disinfecting and wear rubber gloves.Finally, rinse the entire area with clean water, and then rapidly dry the surfaces. Use fans and dehumidifiers or natural ventilation that exchanges inside air with outside air.
Preventing Mold Growth
The moisture problem must be fixed to prevent future mold growth. Since there are some mold spores everywhere and since mold grows on any wet organic surface, the only way to prevent mold growth is to keep things dry.
Air Cleaners
Air cleaners will not solve a mold problem. A high-efficiency air filter that removes mold spores may reduce the number of spores in the air, but mold spores rapidly settle onto surfaces, such as the floor, where air filters cannot remove them. Filters may reduce the number of mold spores in the air but are not substitutes for removing the mold. Air cleaners that produce ozone are not effective at eliminating mold. Ozone is a lung irritant that should not be in an occupied space.
Eliminating Mold
1. Remove mold and clean surfaces
2. Disinfect
3. Rinse and dry

quicklyMolds can be found almost anywhere; they can grow on virtually any organic substance, as long as moisture and oxygen are present. There are molds that can grow on wood, paper, carpet, foods, and insulation. When excessive moisture accumulates in buildings or on building materials, mold growth will often occur, particularly if the moisture problem remains undiscovered or unaddressed. It is impossible to eliminate all mold and mold spores in the indoor environment. However, mold growth can be controlled indoors by controlling moisture indoors.The Key to Mold Control is Moisture Control.It is important to dry water damaged areas and items within 24-48 hours to prevent mold growth. If mold is a problem in your home, clean up the mold and get rid of the excess water or moisture. Fix leaky plumbing or other sources of water. Wash mold off hard surfaces with detergent and water, and dry completely. Absorbent materials (such as ceiling tiles & carpet) that become moldy may have to be replaced.
Dampen moldy materials before removal to minimize the number of airborne mold spores.Mold can be removed from hard surfaces such as hard plastic, glass, metal and counter tops by scrubbing with a non-ammonia soap or detergent. (Do not mix ammonia and bleach; the fumes are toxic.)It is impossible to completely remove mold from porous surfaces such as paper, Sheetrock (drywall) and carpet padding, so these materials should be removed and discarded

Controlling Excess Moisture
*Use exhaust fans when showering
* Repair plumbing leaks
* Vent clothes dryer
* Dry and clean flooded materials

People produce 3 pints of water per day just breathing. Other sources of moisture include cooking, cleaning and taking showers. About one pint of moisture comes from a 10-minute shower. Moisture coming from basement walls and floors can be up to 100 pints per day with wet soil. Relative humidity is the amount of moisture in the air relative to the amount it can hold. Cold air can hold very little moisture, so even at 90% RH there is little moisture in the air. As the air is warmed, the amount of moisture it can hold increases and the RH decreases. Air at 0°F and 90% RH will have a RH of only 5% when warmed to 70°F. Since outside air is very dry during the winter, ventilating is the best way to remove moisture. Summer ventilation may increase the humidity in a basement. Cooling air increases its relative humidity. Air at 75°F and 65% RH will have a relative humidity of about 90% if cooled to 65°F in a cool basement. A dehumidifier or air conditioner is recommended to reduce basement humidity during the summer.

Reduce Condensation
* Winter — 30-40% humidity * Summer –less than 65-70% humidity\n\nEven with energy efficient windows, relative humidity in the home or in one room can cause condensation on windows. Prolonged moisture from condensation can damage the window by rotting wood around the window and lead to mold growth. Reduce condensation by keeping the indoor humidity level below 40% in winter. You can reduce window condensation by adding an additional layer, such as plastic, which warms the window surface. This is similar to dressing in layers. Dehumidifiers generally only lower humidity to about 50% so dehumidifiers are not adequate for limiting condensation during the winter.
Hygrometer
Hygrometers measure relative humidity but are often not accurate. Some can be as much as 20% off. Electronic digital units tend to be more accurate. To calibrate, place the hygrometer in a sealed plastic bag with a mixture of ¼ cup table salt and ½ cup water for 12 hours. The gauge should read 75% humidity.
Attic Ventilation
Poor or inadequate attic ventilation can lead to problems such as wet insulation, water-damaged ceilings, rotting wood and mold growth. Provide attic ventilation at the eave and the peak or ridge.
Ice Dams
Ice dams occur when escaping heat melts snow on the roof and the water freezes when it reaches the eaves. Reduce the potential for ice dams by providing adequate attic insulation and ventilation, and reducing any air paths from the living space to the attic.
Crawl Space
Crawl spaces and basements can be sources of moisture in a home. Moisture can move through the soil or porous concrete and into the home. Crawl spaces should have a vapor retarder on the soil that is sealed to the foundation. Otherwise, moisture in the crawl space can lead to mold growth.
Drainage
Controlling moisture by drainage is important. Install at least 6 inches of gravel underneath the basement concrete floor. This provides a water drainage layer and radon removal layer. Also, provide gradual ground slope away from the home and extend down spouts away from the house.
Control Mites *
Keep humidity less than 50% * Wash sheets weekly in 130 degrees or hotter * Vacuum mattress, chairs and carpeting regularly * Replace pillows every five years Moisture can affect indoor air quality by increasing dust mite populations. Dust mites are tiny creatures that feed on human skin cells that are shed every day. Some people allergic to dust mites will have symptoms such as a runny nose or watery eyes. Dust mites prefer moist environments and soft textures, including bedding, upholstery fabrics and carpeting. Mites do not normally live in the dry environment of a furnace or air-conditioning duct.
Humidifiers
Keep clean by changing water * Keep clean by cleaning reservoir tanks * Keep area around humidifier dry if not routinely cleaned, humidifiers blow microorganisms into the air. Reduce the possibility of contaminating the air you breathe by cleaning regularly according to the manufacturer”s recommendations and rinsing well with water. Ultrasonic and impeller humidifiers may disperse minerals and other pollutants from the water into the air. Bacteria may be dispersed from dirty humidifiers.
Reduce Carbon Monoxide Risk
* Use carbon monoxide detectors * Service furnace every one to two years * Vent space heaters outdoors * Do not idle vehicle in garage\n\nCarbon monoxide is deadly. It is an odorless, colorless gas. Symptoms are similar to the flu, with headache, dizziness or a sleepy feeling common. Every home should have a carbon monoxide detector if combustion heating (furnace or water heater) is used.
Radon Detector
Radon is a colorless, odorless radioactive gas that increases the potential for lung cancer. The gas results from the natural decay of uranium and radium. It is found in low amounts worldwide. In North Dakota, 60% of tested homes had elevated levels in an EPA study. Elevated radon levels were found in 60% of the homes in the Red River Valley and 40% of homes in other Minnesota locations. Test your home for radon using a kit from a hardware store, the American Lung Association (www.lungusa.org) or your local public health district. Send the canister to the lab indicated with the kit.
Air Cleaners
Evaluate: * how well it collects particles (percent efficiency rate) * how much air it draws through The best method to reduce indoor pollutants is to remove the source, next is to dilute the pollutant through ventilation, then to remove some of the pollutant by using an air cleaner. Air filters are the most effective and least costly method to remove particles in the air. Both the percentage of particles removed and the volume of air filtered must be considered in evaluating the effectiveness of air cleaners. They are not designed to remove gas such as radon or carbon monoxide. Units that produce ozone are not recommended. Poor indoor air quality may affect health immediately or possibly years later (such as lung cancer). If you experience dizziness, fatigue, or irritations of the eyes, nose or throat, pay attention to the time and place symptoms occur. Note if the symptoms fade when you are away from home and recur once home. It is a good idea to improve air quality in your home even before sensitivity starts. Individuals have their specific sensitivity, which varies greatly from person to person. By taking simple preventive steps, you can keep your home healthy.’, ‘Things you can do to clean up the air in your home’, ‘By taking simple preventive steps, you can keep your home healthy. Poor indoor air quality may affect health immediately or possibly years later. If you experience dizziness, fatigue, or irritations of the eyes, nose or throat, pay attention to the time and place symptoms occur. Note if the symptoms fade when you are away from home and recur once home.

Keep Your Home Healthy
cross flow heat exchanger up to 60% efficient
Life inside today’s tight home generates both moisture and pollutants. The moisture comes from cooking, washing, showers and breathing. At excessive levels, moisture condenses on windows and can cause structural deterioration. Areas of excessive moisture are also breeding grounds for mold, mildew, fungi, dust mites and bacteria. You know you have a problem if you find moisture collecting on your windows, or if you notice black spots on walls. These unsightly spots indicate mildew growth. Mold spores and dust easily become airborne and circulate freely throughout the house, possibly causing a range of symptoms and allergic reactions.

Indoor air quality is important. We breathe about 5,000 gallons of air daily. Indoor air can be more polluted than outdoor air, even in large industrialized cities. We spend 90% of our time indoors. Especially at risk are infants and the elderly, who spend almost all of their time indoors. Indoor pollution can be as serious as carbon monoxide poisoning, which can be life threatening. Excessive moisture inside the home can contribute to indoor air contamination.

It’s best to focus on changes you can take to reduce your exposure to indoor pollutants.

Indoor Environmental Triggers
* Secondhand Smoke
* Dust Mites
* Molds
* Cockroaches and Pests
* Pets
* Nitrogen Dioxide
* Outdoor Air
Americans spend up to 90% of their time indoors. Therefore, indoor allergens and irritants can play a significant role in triggering asthma attacks. It is important to recognize potential asthma triggers in the indoor environment and reduce your exposure to those triggers. You may not be affected by all of the triggers listed here. Your doctor can help you to determine which triggers affect your asthma and develop a specific plan to reduce your triggers.

When you and your doctor make the plan, be sure to include:
* Your child asthma triggers.
* Instructions for asthma medicines.
* What to do if your child has an asthma attack.
* When to call your doctor.
* Emergency telephone numbers.
Some of the most common indoor asthma triggers include secondhand smoke, dust mites, mold, cockroaches and other pests, household pets, and combustion byproducts. Learn more about these triggers and how to reduce your exposure to them.
Secondhand Smoke

Secondhand smoke is a mixture of smoke from the burning end of a cigarette, pipe or cigar and the smoke exhaled by the smoker that is often found in homes and cars where smoking is allowed.

Dust Mites

Dust mites are too small to be seen, but can be found in almost every home in mattresses and bedding materials, carpets, upholstered furniture, stuffed toys and curtains.

Mold

Mold can grow indoors when mold spores land on wet or damp surfaces. In the home, mold is most commonly found in the bathroom, kitchen and basement.

Cockroaches and other Pests

Cockroach body parts, secretions and droppings, and the urine, droppings and saliva of pests, such as rodents, are often found in areas where food and water are present.

Warm-Blooded Pets (such as cats and dogs)

Pets’ skin flakes, urine and saliva can be found in homes where pets are allowed inside.

Nitrogen Dioxide

Nitrogen Dioxide is an odorless gas that can be a byproduct of indoor fuel-burning appliances, such as gas stoves, gas or oil furnaces, fireplaces, wood stoves and invented kerosene or gas space heaters.